Mike Crespi builds and reviews Revell’s Porsche Junior Tractor

It’s a pretty uncomplicated kit to build, and a snap kit too with pretty good detail. It’s not a curbside. Unlike any other model vehicle I’ve built this one builds around the engine. The engine and transmission is one assembly.

You then attach the rear end and front axle and everything else. I decided to build it weathered. Looking for pictures of the 1:1 tractor on line I found over 20 of them of a tractor that’s for sale for $48,000. It’s in mint condition but I was hoping to find an unrestored one. I found other rusty tractor photos to help me with the weathering.

When you open the box it’s only about ½ full, no large body, chassis or interior tub parts. Most of the plastic is red, you can almost build it without painting it, just a few details. I started with flat red since it will be weathered. It looks like it can mostly assembled before weathering.

Here’s photos of what’s inside the box:

It comes with nice rubber tires too!

Well, here’s the engine/chassis going together. The engine/transmission/rear end essentially form the main
structure of the tractor. I still have to weather it up and add the rust and dirt. Here’s the rear wheels:

Here’s the main assembly so far:

This model is certainly going together easily, very little flash and the parts fit together well. You can almost get away without painting. Here’s more photos of it nearly completed.

This kit has a nice decal sheet but the directions doesn’t quite show where they all go.

I’ve been using the Rust All weathering kit along with a Rust antiquing kit by Sophisticated Finishes which has a gray iron paste and a chemical to turn it into real rust. I also used some rust colored pastels.

Well, it was a nice easy build, I enjoyed building it too. A good quality kit. Here are some finished photos:

Steve Linngren builds and reviews Revell’s Ford GT-LM

The Revell Ford GT Le Mans 2017 kit is probably the most complex model I have ever built but the comprehensive 44-step instructions played an important role in a successful project. 

The 16-page instruction document contains a paint guide that lists the 15 colors required for this build.  I studied that paint guide so that I could acquire the colors I did not already have before I began working on the kit.  There is also a section that identifies all the parts that make up this kit.  The kit contains 101 parts and is cast in white plastic, clear plastic, red plastic and soft rubber. The section titled “Read this before you begin” is also valuable in supporting a successful project. The kit is very well designed and I did not have significant problems with parts fitting together.  Nearly all of the parts fit well, but I still used trial fits for all of them to learn how they worked together.

One issue I encountered was with the two-piece body.   Because of the long seams, I glued the two main body parts together in phases to simplify the process.  After I assembled the two body pieces, I noticed some gaps in the joints and decided to fill them with body putty to improve the appearance.

Another issue appeared after I applied a coat of Duplicolor Automotive Sandable primer to the body.  I noticed several very fine mold lines on the front and rear fender tops and the front and rear valances.  I sanded them away and proceeded with the finish.

This kit contains many decals to enhance the realism of the model.  Since they need to be installed after particular areas have been painted, the order of a few assembly steps had to be changed.  Many of the decals are quite small and require real concentration to handle and put in place.  I put a small tweezer to good use for that process.  In my case, I decided to build the Ford GT Le Mans 2017 kit in how I imagined a street livery would look, and I did not need to apply all the exterior decals.

The body is painted with Duplicolor White Sandable Primer, Duplicolor Ford White, and Rustoleum Crystal Clear. No final polishing was required. Various shades of Tamiya paints were used for interior, chassis, and engine details.

The overall build process proceeded very well, but I did encounter difficulties installing parts number 49 (rear intake top), 53 (left turbo exhaust)  and 54 (right turbo exhaust) because of their tight fits.  The rest of the project was routine and I am pleased with the outcome.  This is a well-designed, well-detailed, high quality kit that produces a very good replica of the 1:1 automobile.

Mike Crespi builds & reviews this Aoshima motorcycle: I’ve been under the impression that Aoshima kits are pretty close to Tamiya kits in quality. Well this will be my first Aoshima to build. I will be building this kit box stock as there are no aftermarket detail kits for it and I can’t find anything on the 1:1 bike for detailing information. I just have the instructions and box art. Here is a picture of everything laid out that comes in the box:

Figure 1

Well, the first step is assembling the wheels. So the wheel centers and spokes have to be painted semi- gloss black. This requires some tricky masking of the rim. See Figure 2.

Figure 2

Looks like the masking worked pretty well. I sprayed the semi-gloss black and removed the masking. I had to then put back the silver radial lines from the cooling fins on the wheel. That was real easy with a Molotow pen. See Fig 3:

Figure 3

Well, I can see now that these kits do not compare to Tamiya kits. They lack detail. The chain only has the links molded on the outside. Tamiya has the links molded on all four sides of the chain. Tamiya kits are way better. But so far this kit has been building easily. Below are the wheels installed on the front fork and rear swing arm. The swing arm has some nice sink marks. See Figure 4.

Figure 4
The engine is fairly simple as well.

Now I’m getting somewhere. I have the rear suspension and the engine attached to the frame. This kit does assemble easy enough and the parts fit together well. But there are sink marks in the rear swing arm. See Figures 6 and 7:

Figure 6

Now I have the fork installed with the headlight and front turn signal assembly. I used BMF for the reflector in the turn signals and used Molotow Chrome for the reflector in the headlamp assembly. So far everything has been easy to assemble. See Figures 8 & 9 below:

Figure 8

I glued the exhaust system together. The mufflers were done in two haves. The chrome quality is very nice but having a glue seem down the center was quite unsightly. I tried to get away with Molotow chrome but it looked bad. So I did sanding and used AlClad Chrome which came out pretty good. See Figure 10:

Figure 10

It sure wasn’t easy gluing the exhaust system to the bike. There were a couple of holes on the inboard side of the mufflers that went onto pins on the frame. But it has four individual header pipes that went from the crossover assembly to the engine block. Only the two inside cylinders had rings for the pipes to fit into.

Then I assembled the seat and gas tank to the frame. The seat had a few fairing parts around the back and sides. And after all that was done I applied the decals. They came off the sheet fairly quickly. I didn’t do a perfect job either. That last thing I did were the side view mirrors and the license plate frame. The mirrors have some nice sink marks right in the middle. All in all I was not really enthusiastic about this kit as it did not meet up to the standards of the Tamiya motorcycles I’ve built Here is a finished photo:

Bob McAllan built and reviews Revell’s new 1969 Boss 302 below:

The Mustang for 1969 was the first major restyle of this iconic Pony Car class from Ford. The Boss 302 was a special model that emphasized the importance of winning on the racetrack with a regular production car. The phrase “Race It On The Weekend-Drive It On Monday” was a major advertising lead-in for Ford’s print and television marketing at that time. Since the rules for racing in various classes varied so much Ford offered accessories to buyers all the parts that race teams of the day needed to be competitive on many levels. The styling of the Boss 302 was done by Larry Shinoda and gave the car its distinctive appearance. The car offered a special version of Ford’s thin-wall small block V-8. To add to its appeal to young buyers and racing enthusiasts Ford added front and rear spoilers and special paint and decal markings. This kit represents the 69 Boss 302 very well as the most popular vintage Mustang currently on the collector market.

Start with the 21-piece V-8 engine assembly; it makes into an accurate example of this iconic engine. The 302 engine became the basis for many of Ford’s engine platforms over the past 50 years. It  assembles into a stock version of this engine with a single 4-barrel carburetor, separate distributor and coil, a detailed front cover with water pump detail, a separate oil filter unit, upper radiator hose, starter and generator, fan and drive unit. It has well detailed exhaust manifolds, chrome valve covers w/ breather cap and air cleaner with accent decal. While the engine appears complete when finished and painted it lacks a fuel pump, a bracket for the alternator and a lower radiator-to-engine water hose.

The kit contained Tampo printed Firestone Wide Oval tires and stock wheels to build a very realistic factory stock appearing model. I substituted Cragar 5 spoke deep offset chrome mag wheels from my parts box to add a more aggressive look.

The kit has a generic 6-piece interior tub carried over from Revell’s previous variations of the 69-70 era Mustang cars. The tub did not have separate door panels and back seat. The center console was molded into the floor between two 2-piece generic bucket seats. The interior had minimal molded in detail on the door panels but did include excellent wood grain decals to accent the dashboard gauge surrounds and gauges and shift lever area on the console. The decals are thin and needed a lot of fiddling to make them lay down around the gauge surround areas. There is a chrome gearshift lever that needed some rubber paint to reflect a real appearance and has a ting accent decal for the knob.

Next is the 7-piece chassis with a molded in front suspension assembly, a 1-piece driveshaft, axle and spring unit, a 2-piece exhaust pipe-muffler system and four detailed shock absorbers. I painted the chassis Krylon matte black and the front and rear suspension units Krylon semigloss black. The exhaust system and the masked off gas tank were painted dull aluminum to look better than the call out colors recommended by the instructions. I modified the ride height of the front spindles by snapping off the mounting pins on the front end and reset them about 4 scale inches to give the car a more aggressive stance.

The clear window glass was a 1-piece unit that went in well. The 4 clear headlight lenses were mounted into chrome buckets that fit into fender the headlight areas and the other two were mounted into the rear of the grill assembly. The 2 read clear taillights mounted into the rear body fascia panel. The only problem with the grill was it was supposed to be a chromed unit. But when Revell redesigned the front fascia unit to correct prior design errors on earlier model editions they had it cast as a white plastic part. The chrome accent edges are very thin and it takes a steady hand to pick out the chrome surround with whatever trimming material you prefer. I tried both chrome foil and Molotow chrome pens unsuccessfully and ended up using chrome paint and a very fine detail brush as a last result.

The kit was molded in white polystyrene. The 6-piece body consisted of front and rear fascia units, the main body, hood and two door mounted rear-view  mirrors with chrome mirror inserts. The only mold lines were at the ends of the front fender areas. The most serious issue was that there was a large molded indentation area on both sides of the roof just behind the door small side glass area. These indentations were not on any of the earlier Revell versions of this 69 Mustang car. I had a devil of a time securing body putty into these areas until I drilled a hole into each of the indentations to act as an anchor. Then sanding it to form the correct curve of the roof sides. The body and hood had some fitment issues after the radiator top was installed during assembly and required some sanding and fitting to allow the hood to fit even with the grill and front fender lines on each side.

I painted the body, hood, front and rear facias and side mirrors with Tamiya TS-11 Maroon lacquer. I obtained one of the best rattle can paint jobs ever with no need for a clear coat and minimal polishing. My difficulties began with the paint call out for the requiring a masking of the hood and cowl area  to apply the satin black hood paint. I used Krylon Satin Black and it looked great, but after repeated attempts to align the decal to define the satin painted area failed I said to heck with it since the edge of masked area did not have the same sheen and the decal was so thin I opted for no other distinctive body graphics decals for the side and trunk lid either. I used the front Satin black spoiler and the rear window louvers but omitted the rear deck spoiler.

All the assembly units fit together well except for the trouble with attaching the side mirrors and the front spoiler. If I were to attempt building this or any other model with this type of attachment points, I would drill a small pilot hole into the body and then place a thin wire or round mounting pins to these parts to keep them from constantly falling off. This was the reason I left the 3-piece rear spoiler off.

The chrome pieces were excellent, but someone needs to have Revell include the reworked grill into the chrome tree.

Overall, I enjoyed the model build and with a little more pre-assembly drilling holes for parts attachment and fabricating mounting pins it will likely be easier to replicate a more accurate replica of this highly collectable muscle car.

Tamiya Ford GT Review

First impressions are everything and Tamiya knocked it out of the part from the moment you open the box. The setup is normal Tamiya quality with each tree being bagged separately.

At first glance the parts are all molded very crisply and had little to no mold release despite some previous releases from the company. The parts are molded in clear, a satin chrome finish, white, black, metallic grey. The black rubber tires are very crisp with detail however there is no side wall “brand name” to be found which is a bit of a bummer.

The body went together with ease requiring about 45 minutes of careful sanding and dry fitting. A trick learned  building the body was to apply your thin cement from the backside of the body, this way you can avoid fuzzing up any body lines or having a stray fingerprint on body. The only mold lines I uncovered after a quick dusting of grey primer were very light on the fender tops and easy to take off. After that the body was scuffed using 1000 grit and sprayed with Tamiya pink primer followed by base and clear coats.

Engine assembly consisted of a handful of parts followed by a few decals which are hidden once the body is mounted. Suspension was very simple with some nice detail – which was again covered up and hidden by the body.

The interior is on full display in this kit and can be ultra-detailed with aftermarket racing seat belts, flocking, etc. you get the idea.

I had no real complaints with this kit but if I were to knit pick, I would say the hardest part was making sure the body was glued and built straight so it mounted and all the glass fit properly. If building another one I would take extra time during these steps. The other thing would be the headlight assemblies are a bit finicky and all that hard work is hidden once painted and installed.

My final thoughts on the kit would be how it builds into a very detailed curbside model of the new Ford GT and I think even gives the diecast versions of the car a run for their money. It was a very fun build even though supercars are not my first model of choice, but it was a fun creative break from my normal builds, and it turned out very well!

Model on and never be afraid to step outside your comfort zone of building!

Brendan Glover – ACME

Additional pictures to be added

The 1968 Chevelle received an all-new distinctly sculpted body with tapered front fenders and a rounded beltline. The car also adopted a long-hood, short-deck profile and a high rear-quarter “kick-up”. The public responded well to this new design by selling a total of 464,669 units, 62,785 of them being equipped with the SS396 L78 package.

Revell’s all new 68 Chevelle comes complete with 201 parts, molded in white with chrome, clear and red transparent parts.  An impressive decal sheet provides 3 color choices for the side accent stripe (red, white, black) along with gauge and under hood details. Revell also includes some nice pad printed red line tires.  The body is nicely molded in white with very little clean up required before going to paint.  I felt that the panel lines were a bit shallow for the doors and trunk and decided to deepen them with a scriber. I would recommend deepening the lines to avoid filling them in with paint.  Also, the right and left taillight housings are separate from the body.  I chose to glue them to the body and re scribe the panel lines before painting.  This decision worked out well, causing no issues during final assembly as well as not having to worry about trying to glue them into place after a fresh paint job.

The engine consists of two engine halves with the transmission molded into the block and a separate oil pan eliminating that pesky seem running down the center.  The valve covers; fuel pump and carburetor are chrome plated.  I would recommend stripping the chrome off the carburetor and fuel pump and finishing them in a metallizer or paint equivalent to make them appear more realistic.  Other parts for the engine include an alternator with bracket, fan belt and pulley assembly, fan clutch; separate water pump, coil and distributor. Once assembled, it builds up into a nice representation of the Chevrolet L78 396ci. 

Revell chose to mold the frame separately from the interior floor pan.  It makes detailing the chassis and floor pans much easier if you choose to do the primer with body overspray effect as I chose to do.  The front fenders are also molded into this assembly.  Careful masking will need to be done to protect the fenders, interior floor and floor pans if painting multiple colors, but the results are well worth it.

The interior consists of 11 separate pieces including separate door panels, front and rear seats, dash, steering wheel and column, shifter and center console.  The interior assembles easily and I didn’t discover any fit issues.  There were some small gaps on the left and right side of the rear seat where it meets the door panels.  I was concerned at first, but after installing the interior into the body, they are unnoticeable.  I thought the option of black and white shift pattern decals was a nice touch to add to the shifter.  Full instrumentation decals are also included for the gauges.

Final assembly was a breeze.  I did have to carefully shave the top of the firewall to get the chassis assembly to fit properly in the body, but overall that was the only challenge I found.  The front and rear windshields are crystal clear warp free and fit perfectly into the recessed areas of the interior.  Once completed, the model sits nice and level and represents the 1:1 car well.  I chose to add a black vinyl top with Rust-O-Leum textured paint and finished the body in GM Butternut yellow courtesy of MCW finishes.  Overall, I would recommend this kit to everyone from beginners to veteran model builders.  This kit assembles well, it’s almost nonexistent of flash, parts fit are great and it was a lot of fun to build. 

Mike Hackey – ACME